Method of sewing buttons



March 27, 1956 M. PATTERSON 2,739,555

METHOD OF SEWING BUTTONS Filed March 26, 195 1 6 Sheets-Sheet l FIG.1

INVENTOR MOREHEAD PATTERSON A'ITORNEY March 27, 1956 M. PATTERSON METHOD OF SEWING BUTTQNS 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed March 26, 1951 llllll Edi NQE

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HEAD PATTERSON ATTORNEY March 27, 1956 M. PATTERSON 2,

METHOD OF SEWING BUTTONS Filed March 26, 1951 .6- Sheets Sheet 3 FIG.3 4 3 A 34 A INVENTOR MOREHEAD PATTERSON ATTORNEY March 1956 M. PATTERSON METHOD OF SEWING BUTTONS 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed March 26. 1951 MOREHEAD PATTERSON ATTORNEY March 27, 1956 M. PATTERSON METHOD OF sswmc BUTTONS s Shaets'Sheet 5 Filed March 26, 1951 INVENTOR MOREHEAD PATTERSON a BY ATTO R N EY March 27, '1956 M PATTERSON .METHob 0F SEWING BUTTONS 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 INVENTOR MOREHEAD PATTERSON Filed March 26, 1951 METHGD F SEWING BUTTONS Morehead Patterson, New York, N. Y., assignor to American Machine & Foundry Company, a corporation of New Jersey Application March 26, 1951, Serial No. 217,644

8 Claims. (Cl. 112-265) This invention relates to an improved method of sewing, and more particularly to a novel method of automatically sewing buttons and like fastening devices to materials, such as articles of clothing, in a manner closely simulating hand sewing and in which each button is attached with a minimum of thread or no thread showing on the under side of the material.

The invention consists in improvements to the button sewing method disclosed in Johnson et al., Patent 2,451,- 495. It solves the problem of attaching buttons in a manner closely simulating hand sewing, wherein only a portion of a single loop of thread, or no thread at all appears on the under side of the material to which a button is attached. in known types of button sewing machines, buttons are generally secured to articles of clothing or the like by one or more loops of thread passed through the holes of the button and the work, mid secured beneath the exposed surface of the work. According to the present invention, buttons are sewed to the desired material with a short thread passing loosely through the eye of a needle, which is projected back and forth through the material and selected button holes in such a manner that the thread travels in continuous closed paths substantially entirely within the work. In this manner one or more or any number of complete continuous loops of thread are made to secure the button to the material.

In the method taught in the above referred to Johnson et al. patent, portion of each loop of thread appears on the under side of the material to which a button is attsched. While in some cases this type of button sewing may be satisfactory, in many instances it is not desirable.

The present invention solves the problem of blind" stitching or sewing button to the material to which it is attached. If desired, all of the thread passing through the material may be obscured from view, although it may be preferred to have a portion of at least one loop of the attaching thread visible on the under side of the work. The desirable results of the invention are accomplished by folding the work, such as an article of clothing, and locating the folded edge in the path of travel of the needle which is passed back and forth through a button and the folded edge of the work. The plane of the button is located substantially at right angles to the path of travel of the needle. Relative movement is then effected between the needle and the button and folded edge of the work, such that at proper times during the sewing operations the needle may travel the thread back and forth through selected holes in the button, and also form a post supporting the button away from the work.

At the conclusion of the formation of a plurality of loops attaching the button to the work, the button is swung through 90, such that the plane of the button lies in a plane parallel to the path of travel of the needle and the work is positioned relative to the path of the needle so as to locate the loops of thread connecting the button to the work substantially at right angles to the path of travel of the needle. Relative movement is then effected between the button and work and the needle so that on States Patent one stroke, the needle passes on one side of the loops and on its next stroke, it passes on the other side of the loops. This winds or wraps the loops connecting the button to the work and forms what is known in the trade as a post or shank. After a suitable number of post forming windings or wraps of thread has been made, the thread is anchored against unwrapping. This can be accomplished by moving the needle through thread forming the shank or through the work at any suitable point where the thread secures the button to the work. The locking of the thread against unlocking completes the sewing operation.

It is an object of my invention to provide an improved method of attaching buttons and like fastening devices to articles of clothing and other materials. I

It is a further object of the invention to provide a method of sewing buttons to materials, such as articles of clothing, in a manner closely simulating the best type of hand sewing, and in which the thread which attaches the button to the material does not appear on the'under side thereof.

It is a further object of the invention to provide an improved method for sewing buttons to supporting material in which to all intents and purposes the button appears to be hand sewn and in which no thread or only limited portions of the attaching thread appear on the under side of the supporting material.

The invention also consists in the improved automatic method of blind sewing buttons to supporting material in a manner simulating the best type of hand sewing in which the needle employed for attaching the button is passed back and forth through the folded edge of the material to which the button is to be attached and relative movement is effected between a needle and the material and button in a plane substantially at right angles to the travel of the needle during the formation of the loops of thread attaching the button to the material.

The invention also contemplates the formation of posts or shanks from the loops of thread attaching the button to a supporting material by supporting a button spaced from the material to which it is attached in a plane substantially at right angles to the material, wrapping the loops of thread externally and locking the thread in the loops and material to complete the sewing of the button to the material.

The invention also consists in the method of sewing buttons to a supporting material in a manner simulating hand sewing in which the material is folded and the attaching thread is passed through the folded edge of the Work in securing the button to the material. The invention also includes moving the work and button controlled distances relative to the path of travel of the needle in order to blind stitch the button to the material or make visible a limited portion only of not more than one or two loops of thread on the under side of the material to which the button is attached.

It is a further object of the invention to attach buttons to a supporting material in a manner closely simulating hand sewing in which the movement of the needle is responsible for the formation of a plurality of loops attaching the button to the material and also for the formation of a plurality of windings or wrappings encircling the loops in order to form a post or shank which supports the attached button away from the material to which it is secured.

With these and other objects not specifically mentioned in View, the invention consists in certain combinations and constructions which will be hereinafter fully de scribed, and then set forth in the claims hereunto appended.

Figure 1 is a side elevation of the button sewing machine selected to illustrate the invention, parts being 3 broken away to illustrate the general driving mechanism of the machine;

Figure 1A is a partial isometric view of the locking arrangement of the clutch control lever;

Figure 2 is a side elevation of the illustrated machine on a slightly larger scale showing mechanism for controlling the upper needle bar, the material and button supporting table and the button manipulating mechanlsm;

Figs. 3 and 3A when joined on line AA disclose a plan view of the synchronized driving means of the button manipulating and work handling mechanism of the machine;

Figs. 4 to inclusive and Fig. 12 are sectional side views illustrating successive steps in sewing a button to the material in accordance with the invention;

Fig. 11 is a plan view illustrating schematically the preferred form of stitching path during the button sewing operation;

Fig. 13 is a sectional side view illustrating the first step in the post winding or shank" forming operation;

Fig. 14 is a plan view of Fig. 13;

Figs. 15 and 16 are schematic end views illustrating two of the consecutive steps in the post winding operation;

Fig'. 17 is a plan view illustrating the material and the button attached thereto after completion of the button sewing and post winding operations;

Fig. 18 is a schematic side view illustrating a modified step in the button sewing operation according to the invention in which the first step is completely hidden in the material (blind stitch);

Fig. 19 is a view showing a modified method of post winding in which the Winding thread is disposed in substantially Figure 8 arrangement through the loops of thread connecting the button to the work and Figs. 20 and 21 disclose suitable cams which may be used for serving and for making the modified post or shank, shown in Figure 19.

According to the invention, the several steps of the method of attaching or sewing buttons to the work are performed mechanically and automatically. A machine capable of performing the invention and selected for purposes of illustration is shown in Figures 1, 2, 3 and 3A of the drawings. This machine may be the same as shown and described fully in copending Patterson and McGinley application, Serial Number 217,645 for Button Sewing Machine, filed March 26, 1951.

In the machine illustrated there is provided a center support frame 20 and a combination end frame and housing 32, the frames being secured to and spaced by supporting members 34. An upper needle bar 36 and a lower needle bar 38 arranged in opposed axial alignment are provided with actuating members 40 and 42, respectively. Actuating member 42 is connected to arm 44 (Fig. 1) extending from the forward end of a lever 46 which at its rearward end is provided with an arm 48 carrying a cam roller 50 engaging cam track in cam 54. A rotatable hub 134 referred to more in detail hereinafter provides oscillating motion to lever 46 and arm 44, which in turn imparts vertical reciprocating motion to lower needle bar 38. Lever 46 is loosely mounted on a horizontal shaft 56 (Fig. 1) supported at each end by suitable bearing brackets conveniently attached to the frame of the machine.

Actuating member 40 of the upper needle bar 36 is connected to an arm 62 (Fig. 2) of lever 64 loosely mounted on a horizontal shaft 66. Arm 62 is provided with a lug 68 carrying a horizontal stud 70 which engages with the head of an adjustable screw 72 secured to and projecting vertically from the free end of an arm 74 extending from lever 76 also loosely mounted on horizontal shaft 66 supported by hearing bracket 80 (Fig.- 1) and bearing lug 82 which projects from a bridge 84 Figs. 1 and 2). The latter, and bracket 80, are suitably secured to frame 32. Am 74 of lever 76 also carries ahorizontal stud 86 which by means of tension spring 88, is connected to horizontal stud 70 projecting from lug 68 of lever 64, thus providing a permanent, but yieldable connection between levers 64 and 76. At its rear portion lever 76 is provided with an arm 90 (Fig. l) mounting a cam follower 92 which engages cam track 52 and cam 54. Cam track 52 provides oscillating motion to 1evers '76 and 64, the latter through arm 62 imparting vertical reciprocating motion to upper needle bar 36 which is operated in synchronism with lower needle bar 38.

Upper needle bar 36 is guided in suitable bushings, which may be similar to those shown in Johnson Patent 2,386,800. These bushings are carried by lug 94 projecting from the forward end of bridge 84 (Figs. 1 and 2). Lower needle bar 38 is also guided in suitable bushings constructed andsupp'orbed in the same general manner as disclosed in Johnson Patent 2,386,800, and further description thereof is deemed unnecessary. This mechanism employs a double pointed needle 96 having a point at each end and an eye located between its points or ends, preferably about midway of its length, through which the thread passes. If desired one end of needle 96 may be blunt.

The machine also is equipped with a looper arm 98, the general principle of which is the same as that disclosed in Johnson Patent 2,386,800. However, since the button sewing action of this machine is divided in a button sewing operation and a post winding operation, it is desirable to have a slower looper action during the sewing operation and a fast looper action during post wrapping operation. To accomplish this task, looper arm 98 is mounted on a horizontal shaft 100 (Fig. 1). Between its ends, and preferably in its central portion, shaft 100 carries clutch member 102 slidably keyed on shaft 100. At its ends clutch member 102 (Fig. 1) is provided with a one tooth clutch face 108 and 110, respectively. The central portion of clutch member 102 is provided with a groove 112 which engages with a suitably bent rod 114 projecting from lug 116 adjustably secured to an oscillating shaft 118 which is actuated with button manipulating chuck 520, as described hereinafter.

During button sewing operations, clutch member 102 is shifted to the left by rod 114, as viewed in Figure 1, causing clutch face 108 of member 102 to engage with clutch jaw 120 which is an integral part of arm 122 loosely mounted on looper shaft 100. Arm 122 is connected by a rod (not shown) to lever 126 pivotally mounted on a stud shaft (not shown) suitably secured in the frame of the machine. Lever 126 is formed with an arm 130 which at its free end carries cam roller 132 (Fig. 3) engaging with an open earn 134 loosely mounted on shaft 136. Cam 134 provides the desired oscillating motion to looper arm 98 during the button sewing operation when clutch jaw 120 of oscillating arm 122 is in engagement with cam face 108 of clutch member 102. Cam 134 is continuously rotated by means of sprocket 138 (Figs. 1 and 3), which in the embodiment illustrated herein, is integral with the hub of cam 134 loosely turning on shaft 136.

Sprocket 138 is driven by chain 140 from sprocket 142 mounted on shaft 144. Secured to shaft 144 is a sprocket 146 which is driven by chain 148 from sprocket 150 on shaft 136. Shaft 136 carries gear 152 which meshes with and is driven by gear 154 on shaft 156 (Fig. 3) connected to a suitable gear train (not shown) in housing 32'. This gear is driven by gear 158 (Fig. l) which is an' integral part of a hub 160 loosely mounted on a horizontal stationary stud shaft 162. The latter is provided with a flange 164 formed integrally therewith. Screws secure flange 164 to the vertical wall of housing 32 (Fig. l). Needle bar actuating cam 54 also is secured to hub 160.

As shown herein, cam 54 forms an integral part of a V-belt pulley 168 which is driven by belt 170 from pulley 172 forming an integral part of member 174 of a conical clutch designated generally 173. Also secured to hub 160 is a looper operating cam 176 constructed and designed to impart to looper arm 98 a different and faster movement during pest wrapping operations of the machine. Cam 176 (Figure 1) is engaged by cam follower 178 pivoted to the free end of cam lever 180 loosely mounted on looper shaft 106. In the illustrated embodiment, lever 180 forms an integral part of clutch jaw 182. The arrangement of parts is such that when clutch member 102 is shifted to the right, as viewed in Figure 1, one tooth clutch face lid of member 102 engages with jaw 132., at which time the action of cam 176 upon cam lever 132 will be transmitted through jaw 182 and clutch member 162 to looper shaft 106 and hence to looper arm 98.

In order to prevent undue side motion of clutch jaws 120 and 182 when being engaged by clutch member 102., each jaw is provided with a slot (not shown) in which engage pins (not shown) secured to shaft 109 and protruding through the slots permitting their respective jaws free rocking, out no sideward movements.

The machine is driven from a suitable source of power (not shown) through clutch 173, pulley 172 and belt 17% running on pulley 1525. The specific details of the mechanism for driving the machine is fully described in the above referred to Patterson and McGinley application and since it forms no part of this invention, further description thereof is omitted in the interest of brevity.

When the operator is ready to start the machine, he presses a suitably bent starting lever 28% (Fig. l) supported by bridge 34 of the machine. This operation causes a momentary closing of switch 29% making a circuit (not shown) including the coil of solenoid 262, thereby energizing the solenoid and causing a downward movement of armature 26% and lever 256 attached thereto mounted on shaft 254, resulting in throwing in the clutch designated generally 173 and starting the drive of the machine. The rocking of lever 256 in the manner described causes a lever 22!) connected to arm 252 of lever 256 to be moved to the left as viewed in Figure l, which operates the cycle lock of the machine designated generally C. This mechanism insures that the machine will always stop at the conclusion of each sewing and post wrapping operation with needle 96 in the upper needle bar position above the work supporting table referred to hereinafter. A lock mechanism shown in Figure la consisting of a pin 266, is engaged by pin 268 and held thereby so that lever 22-9 cannot move to its inoperative position, releasing the cycle lock mechanism C until solenoid 262 is again energized in the next cycle of the machine. Cycle lock mechanism C forms no specific part of the invention and is fully described and shown in the above referred to Patterson and McGinley application. A detailed description of this mechanism therefore is deemed unnecessary.

The stopping of the machine at the end of a sewing and post winding cycle is effected by control lug 296 mounted on earn 298. As described in the above described co-pending application, during each cycle of the machine, lug 2% closes switch 3% momentarily, thereby energizing solenoid 2.82 which through its armature 280 and arm 276, effects a disengagement of pin 268 with pin 266 whereby spring 244 causes lever 22% to be moved to its inoperative position.

The loose end T of the thread is handled properly during the sewing and post winding operations by a thread puller 318. As illustrated in Figures 3, 5, 6, 9 and 10, thread puller 3113 is operated to pull the loose end of the thread through the button and the work, and dispose it about a thread supporting drum 482. Thread puller 318 is mounted on a rotary arm 320 fixed to a shaft 322. The construction and operation of the thread puller is substantially the same as that shown and described in Johnson Patent 2,386,800. Hence further showing and description are deemed unnecessary.

In the embodiment selected for illustrating the method constituting the invention, material or work M, to which a button or similar fastening device is to be attached, is folded over the free end of a support member, such as a gauge plate or tongue designated generally 337 with the folded edge of the material to which the button is to be sewed extending beyond the edge of plate 337 and properly gauged for sewing. Gauge plate 337 is suitably mounted on a table 342 which, as shown in Figures 2, 3 and 3A, is supported for a combined four motion path of travel in a horizontal plane in order to locate a button and the work in a proper position relative to the needle such that the needle passes through selected holes in the button and the work, and selected holes in the button only during alternate movements of the needle upwardly and downwardly relative to the button and the work. The path of travel of the thread is shown in Figure 11.

As shown, table 342 is moved by suitable mechanism, designated generally D, Figures 2 and 3A, by cams 43- 2- and 4 64 in a path of travel such as indicated diagrammatically in Figure 11. Gauge plate 337 is mounted for both vertical and pivotal movement in order that the cloth or material to which a button is to be attached may be folded over the end portion adjacent the needle and swung down and held by suitable means (not shown) in fixed relation relative to the edge of the table for proper disposition of the material or work in the path of travel of needle 96.

The specific details of the construction of table 342 and operating mechanism D are shown and described fully in copending Patterson and McGinley application and it is not deemed necessary to furnish a detailed description herein The machine is provided with a presser foot and needle guide 360 adapted to be moved into and out of engagement with the work or material M to which buttons are to be sewed by means of a manually operated treadle.

Buttons B to be sewed to material M are fed into a guide chute 49d and supported in the bottom end thereof for delivery by a button ejecting and hole aligning memher 522 into button chuck 529 (Fig. 3A) mounted on table 342. At the proper time during the operation of the machine, button chuck 520 is turned from substantially vertical button receiving position to substantially horizontal button sewing position above material M to which it is to be sewed. Chuck 520 is turned by lever 616 having a cam follower 614 engaging a slot in lug 612 on shaft 608 to which button chuck 520 is attached. Suitable cams and operating mechanisms indicated generally at E in Figures 3 and 3A which are fully shown and described in the above referred to copending Patterson and McGinley application, effect the desired movements of button chuck 520, both when a button is positioned above the work, as shown in Figures 6 to 12 inclusive, and when a button B is supported by chuck 520 in post winding position, as illustrated in Figures 13 to 17 inclusive.

Button chuck 520 is provided with opposed jaws 596 and 597, one of which is pivoted and held by a spring (not shown) in resilient gripping relationship relative to the other. Operating mechanisms E are not fully described herein since they form no specific part of the invention. Reference to the copending Patterson and McGinley application is made in order to give a complete description of this structure.

The desired motions of table 342, during sewing operations when a button is held in substantially horizontal position by button chuck 520, as shown in Figure 12, and during post winding operations when a button is held by chuck 520 as illustrated in Figure 14 may be effected by cams 434 and 444 on shaft 440 and suitable operat 7 ing connections between the table and the cams such that the path of travel of table 342 relative to needle 96 is substantially a figure}, as indicated in full and broken lines in Figure 11. The design of cams 434 and 444 is such that the post winding operation is essentially that shown in Figures 14 to 17 in which the needle winds the threadabout the loops of threa d connecting button B to material M. Figure 14 shows the post winding operation about to commence. Figure 17 shows it completed with the thread F locking the post against unwinding.

If desired, the post winding movement of the needle can travel the thread in a substantially figure path of movement as indicated in Figure 19. Figures 20 and 21 illustrate suitable cams 435 and 445 which can be substituted for cams 434 and 444, respectively, in order to secure this type of post winding which has the desired feature that it is self-locking.

In Figures 4 to 17 inclusive disclosing the sewing steps of the method, a button is sewed to a garment or piece of material M automatically and mechanically in what might be termed a blind stitch method wherein all stitches, with the exception of the first stitch, are made inside or within the thickness of the cloth or the material. Figure 18 shows a modified method step in which the first stitch also is made wholly within the material or passing within the outer and inner curved portions of the folded material to which button B is being attached. The post windings are the same as shown in Figures 14-17, or may be similar to those disclosed in Figure 19.

In practicing the preferred method in accordance with the invention, the operator depresses a pedal (not shown) which causes lever S88, pivotally 'rnou'nted on pivot pin 590, to engage the rear end of button ejecting and aligning member 522 move it into engagement with a button in chute 490 and push it therefrom between jaws 596, 597 of button chuck 520. Button ejecting and aligning member 522 is then oscillated by gear 540 engaging elongated gear 538 formed on member 522 to align the button holes in proper position such that when a button is positioned, as shown in Figure 6, two holes will be directly above the folded work and two holes will be spaced therefrom for proper sewing operations, and hole I, Fig. 11, will be properly located for movement of needle 96 therethrough.

The machine is started by throwing in clutch 173 through the operation of lever 288, described above.

when the machine is started, upper needle bar 36 descends and pushes needle 96 through the cloth of material M into engagement with lower needle bar 38 (Fig. which then descends and pulls needle 96 completely through the material. Thread puller 318, described hereinabove, engages with the loop formed by the thread and pulls the long or loose end thereof through the cloth and deposits it on stationary thread guide drum 482, the short end S of the thread being held by the operator. The action of the thread puller 318 in conjunction with arm 320 and guide drum 432, is fully disclosed in Johnson Patent 2,386,300 and further description thereof is deemed unnecessary. Upper needle bar 36 in the meantime has ascended and is raised momentarily above itsnormal uppermost position to allow the button chuck 520 to him free from interference with needle bar 36, and locate button B in a face-up horiz ontal or sewing position above the selected spot or point on material M to which it is to be sewn.

Work supporting table 342 to which material M is clamped, and which also supports button chuck 520 due to the aetion of cam 434 is so located that ascending lower needle bar 38 now pushes needle 96 upwardly past the folded edge of material M (Fig. 6) and partly through 4 a hole in the horizontally held button. The protruding end of needle 96 then engages waiting upper needle bar 36 which pulls it upwardly and through hole I of the button (Fig-11'). After needle bar 36-has reached its uppermostposition, it descends again a short distance, thereby free end of gauge plate 337.

causing thread Tto slack along needle 96 and form loop L above rnaterial M. The loop portion to the left of needle 96, as viewed in (Fig. 7) is engaged by looper arm 98 which pulls the loose end of thread T away from and clear of the path of needle 96 which descends again as soon as the work supporting table carrying the material and the button chuck has moved to a position to permit needle 96 to enter hole 11 (Fig. ll) of button B (Fig. 8).

Needle96 is pushed downwardly through hole I I, and the folded portion of the material by upper needle bar 36, and then engages with lower needle bar 38 which pulls needle 96 completely through button hole 11, and material M. Thread puller 318 on arm 320 engages the loop formed in thread T beneath work table 342, and pulls the long loose end thereof through buttonhole II and material M (Fig. 9), and disposes the loose portion of thread T about thread guide drum 482.

Table 342 and button chuck 52'0 again move to permit now ascending needle 96 to pass the outer edge of the folded material (Fig. 10) and enter hole Ill of button B. The protruding end of needle 96 engages with upper needle bar 36 which pulls it through button hole III. A loop L is formed again and engaged by looper arm 98 and thread T is pulled out of the way of the needle which, after another shift of the table 342 and button chuck 520, descends again and enters hole lV of the button and the folded portion of the material. Lower needle bar 38 again engages needle 96 and pulls it completely through hole IV of button B and the folded portion of the material, thereby resulting in the formation of a blind stitch.

It is to be noted that as shown in Figs. 6 to 10 inclusive, the thread of all stitches except the first, is contained within the work, that is, between the outer and the inner curved surfaces of the work folded about the in this manner, when the work is removed, and flattened out, only a single thread prick will appear upon the undersurface of material M, thereby closely simulating a high class hand sewn button.

Since the combined action of table actuating cams 434 and 444 produce a so-called figure 8 motion, the button sewing operations described above are repeated a predetermined number of times wherein needle'96 passes up first from the button B through hole I, then goes down through hole II and material M, then moves up from the bottom of button B through hole III and goes down through hole IV and the material, after which needle 96 starts up again through hole I. When a button B has been sewn to material M in the manner described by a predetermined number of stitches (Fig. 12), the actual sewing operations are completed. It has been found that three or four complete loops through each pair of button holes results in a good attachment of a button to the work. If desired the sewing pattern, and number of loops can be changed by changing the shape of cams 434 and 444.

Upper needle bar 36, at the conclusion of the sewing operation, after reaching its uppermost position, is again momentarily raised thereabove in order to permit button chuck 520 to turn back to its vertical position, thus locating the bottom side of button B substantially parallel with a plane'tangent to the curve of the folded edge of material M on gauge plate 337. Since button B is held by jaws 596 and 597 a predetermined distance away from material M, the stitches connecting button B to material Massume a substantially horizontal position, as indicated in Figure 13, when button chuck 520 is turned to locate jaws 596 and 597 and button B held therein in a substantially vertical plane. As chuck 520 is turned, button B slides along the loops of thread connecting the button to the work as it moves to the position shown in Figure 13. In'the meantime, the work supporting table 342, and button chuck supported therein through action of cam 434, have moved towards the front of the machine again, preventing ascending needle 96 'fr'omgoin'gthrou'gh material M. Instead needle 96 passes in front of thefolded edge thereof as shown in Fig. 14.

Cam 434 is so designed that table 342 dwells in its forwardmost position, and prevents any back and forth motion thereof during the entire post winding operation, except when the last lock stitch is formed. During the entire post winding operation, work table 342 and button chuck 521) are only reciprocated sideways by means of cam 444 to effect a proper winding of stem or post P. The post winding operation starts as needle 96 is pushed upwardly by lower needle bar 38 and since in the meantime table 342 has moved to the left as viewed in Fig. 13, needle 96 passes upwardly alongside the loops of thread connecting the button to the work as shown in Fig. 14.

Needle 96 is then engaged by upper needle bar 36 which pulls it high enough to permit table 342 with material M, button B and chuck 524) to move to the opposite direction such that on the following downward stroke, needle 96 passes on the opposite side of the loops of thread which are to form stem or post P (Fig. However, before needle 96 descends, loop L, formed by the thread above table 342 and alongside needle 96 in the same manner as described heretofore is engaged by looper arm 98, moved away from the path of travel of needle 96 and held thereby clear of the movement of the needle. Looper arm 98 also tensions the thread and prevents whipping of the loose end thereof, and at the same time effects a tighter form of winding around post P. Needle guide 360 which is located above the work supporting table and acts as a presser foot to hold the work properly positioned thereon for sewing, provides a guide surface which prevents flexing of the needle 95 out of its proper vertical path of movement. Unless the needle is at all times properly located for transfer from one opposed needle bar to the other, breakage and loss of valuable time may occur. For example, when sewing a button to a garment, such as a mans suit or coat, there may be six layers of cloth disposed about gauge plate 337, two of which layers may be buckram, a stiff fabric. When the point of the needle engages this fabric and moves downwardly through the folded work, the needle may tend to flex out of its proper vertical path of movement and therefore is not properly located for engagement with the opposing needle bar to which it is to be transferred. The provision of needle guide 3613 obviates this difiiculty because the needle moves closely adjacent this guide which is rigidly held against lateral movement and thus proper positioning of the point of the needle is assured.

The main purpose of looper arm 98, is to hold the loose end of thread T out of the path of descending needle 96 (Fig. 15

The action of looper arm 98 during post winding operations is controlled by looper cam 176 which is brought into operation by clutch member 102 at the end of the sewing operations when button chuck 520 is turned from a sewing position to post winding position. In continuing the post winding operation, upper needle bar 36 moves the needle downwardly past the left side of the post P (Fig. 15) after which needle is engaged by lower needle bar 38 and pulled to its lowermost position during which time table 342 with material M and button B moves to the left again as viewed in Fig. 15. As lower needle bar 38 starts moving upward again, a loop formed in thread T is engaged by thread puller 318 on rotating arm 320 and the loose end of thread T is pulled down and deposited upon stationary thread drum 482 mentioned heretofore (Fig. 16). Needle 96 during its upward movement now passes the right side of stem P, is then engaged by upper needle bar 36, table 342 and material M move to the right again as viewed in Fig. 16, and needle 96 is pushed downward again past the left side of the post (Fig. 15). These winding operations are repeated a predetermined number of times.

Ten windings or wraps of thread have been found to give satisfactory results, although more or less could be used if desired. This can be accomplished by changing the design of cam 444.

After the completion of the post winding operations thus described, a combined action of cams 434 and 444 upon table 342 takes place, causing the latter to stop momentarily in such a position that upwardly moving needle 96 passes through the thread wrapped post or shank P (Fig. 17), thus locking the end of thread T by stitch F. Recess 333 formed in the free end of plate 337 provides an opening for the passage of needle 96 therethrough. After passing through the material, upwardly moving needle 96 is engaged by upper needle bar 36 carried to its uppermost position and the machine stops. Figure 17 illustrates a button B sewed onto the material M with a wrapped post or shank P after completion of sewing and post winding operation. The operator then cuts off both ends of the thread which protrude from the material and the button sewed thereon can be removed from the gauge plate 337.

As mentioned heretofore, the invention also includes a modified method of button sewing of the type described herein, wherein the first stitch also is a blind stitch. The step of forming the first stitch in this manner is illustrated in Figure 18. Figures 1 and 3A illustrate a suitable adjusting mechanism for adapting the machine described herein to perform this blind stitching step. For this purpose a flange 696 (Figs. 1 and 3A) secured to the top surface of work supporting table 342 carries an upright stud shaft 698 rotatably attached thereto. Stud shaft 6998 supports a horizontally adjustable stop screw 700 which may be so adjusted that its end projects over the rear edge of work supporting table 342.

The depth of the first notch (not shown) on cam 434 controls the relative position of the table and material with respect to needle 96 during the formation of the first stitch, and as roller 432 on cam lever 430 is prevented by stop screw 700 from entering this notch to its fullest extent, the edge of material M on table 342 is moved further away from the needle and the latter may pass through the folded edge of material M instead of behind the folded edge. To secure this condition, the operator swings 'set screw 700 when properly adjusted about stud 698 to the left in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 3A, until the shank portion of screw 700 is arrested by a stop pin 704 projecting upwardly from flange 696. The free end of screw 700 then projects beyond the rear edge of table 342 and the latter during its rearward movement by cam 434 is arrested when the free end of screw 76!) engages the edge of stop lug 706 (Figs. 1 and 3A). With a different setting of set screw 700, proper, the relative distance between the folded edge position of material M and needle 96 and the desired point on material M through which needle 96 passes, can be adjusted to a very fine degree.

While preferred embodiments of the invention have been described, it is to be understood that the invention is not confined to the specific method steps for carrying out the methods set forth herein by way of illustration, as it is apparent that changes and variations may be made therein by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of the invention or exceeding the scope of the claims hereunto appended.

I claim:

1. The mechanical method of attaching buttons to articles of clothing and the like in a manner simulating hand sewing which consists in supporting a button above a folded portion of a selected article of clothing located in a sewing position for aflixation of said button thereto, passing a needle threaded with a predetermined length of thread completely through a selected hole and said folded portion of said article in one direction of said needle, and through a selected hole only of said button on the opposite movement of said needle, continuing the movement of said needle back and forth through selected 11 holes and the folded portion of said article and selected button holes to form a plurality of continuous loops of thread securing said button to said article, maintaining said article in said sewing position with said button attached thereto, and moving said button on said loops of thread into a plane substantially parallel with the direction of movement of said needle, with the portion of the loops of thread attaching said button to an article extending between the undersurface of said button and said article located substantially at right angles to the path of movement of said needle, moving said needle in one direction past one side of said loops of thread attaching said button to said article, and in the opposite direction past the opposite sides of said loops of thread attaching said button to said article to wind a plurality of continuous laps of thread completely about said loops of thread extending between the bottom of the button and said article of clothing, and then passing said needle and thread through said laps of thread and said loops of thread attaching said button to said article to lock said laps and loops together, whereby when said article is unfolded, said button is supported by a post above said article.

2. The mechanical method of sewing buttons to articles of clothing or the like in a manner simulating hand sewing which comprises positioning said article on a support with a folded edge portion thereof to which a button is to be attached projecting beyond said support, holding a button in position for application to the folded edge portion of said material, passing a needle provided with a thread having a diminishable loose end in one direction through a selected hole of said button and said folded edge of said article, engaging said loose end of said thread after said passage of said needle and thread through said button and article and pulling the-same therethrough, then passing said needle and thread in the opposite direction through a different selected button hole only to completp a stitch, continuing the formation of stitches consisting of a plurality of continuous loops until a sufficient numer of stitches has been "formed, moving said button along said stitches into a-plane substantially at right angles to the plane of said support while maintaining said article against substantial movement, and then moving said needle back and forth on opposite sides of said stitches extending between said folded edgeof said article and the under face of saidbutton to form from said loose end of said thread closed winding loops of thread encircling said stitches, and then moving said needle through said stitches and windings to securesaid-stitches against loosening.

3. The mechanicalmethodof sewing buttons to a supporting material in a manner simulating hand sewing which comprises positioning saidmaterial on a support table with a folded'edge to which a button is to be attached positioned in the path of travel of a needle, locating a button above said folded edge of saidmaterial for I application thereto, passing a needle threaded with a thread having a loose and a fixed endrepeatedly downwardly through selected holes in said button and within said folded edge of said material and upwardly through different selected holes in said button located beyond the folded edge of=said material on said support table to attach said button to said material by a plurality of continuous closed loops of thread, 'moving said material on said table, and said button located thcreabove in a-plane substantially at right angles tothe pathofmovement of said needle after each movement thereof to allow said needle and thread to pass through said selected holes in saidbutton and said material and said button holes, and pulling the loose end-of said thread through said button and said folded edge of said material prior to each movement of said needle upwardly during the formation of each stitch whereby saidthread is secured in single looped thread continuous path arrangement in said "button'and material.

4. A method of sewing buttons to articles of clothing folded edge of said article in position for application to said article, passing a needle provided with a thread having a relatively long diminishable loose end and a relatively short loose end in one direction through a selected button hole and Within said folded edge of said article, engaging said relatively long diminishable loose end of said thread after passage of said needle and thread completely through said article and said button and pulling the same therethrough, holding said relatively short loose end during the first movement of said needle through said folded edge of said article, then passing said thread and said needle in the opposite direction completely through a different selected button hole only to complete a continuous loop stitch, continuing the formation of stitches until a sufficient number of stitches has been formed and pulling the diminisha'ble loose end of each stitch, maintaining said article on said support subsequent to the attachment ,of said button thereto, locating said button in a plane substantially' parallel with the path of movement of said needle and positioning the portions of stitches extending between the under side of said button and the folded edge of said article in a plane substantially at right angles to the path of movement of said needle, and then effecting relative movement between said needle and said article to travel said needle back and forth on opposite sides of and completely about said portions of said stitches to form a plurality of continuous loops of single thread wound thereabout producing a button supporting shank, and seouring said stitches and winding loops of thread against loosening.

5. A method of sewing buttons to a supporting material in a manner simulating hand sewing which comprises positioning a portion of said material to which a button is to be attached in a sewing position on a support table, holding 'a button above a selected point of attachment on said material, passing a needle threaded with a thread having a loose end repeatedly first in one direction through a selected hole in said button and said material, and then in the reverse direction through a selected button hole only to form a plurality of continuous closed looped stitchessecuring said button totsaid material, then While said material is maintained in said sewing position on said table, moving said button on said stitches connecting said button to said material to position said button in a plane substantially at right angles to the position said button occupiedabove said material, and while said button is so positioned, moving said material and said button relative to said needle and passing said needle and thread'aplurality of times through and about the portions of thread between the underside of said button and top of said material in a substantially figure 8 path of travel to form a post supporting said button away from said material, and wherein said post forming thread is locked among said portions of thread connecting said button to said material, pulling the loose end of said thread through said thread portions afterveac'h movement of said needle in one direction through said thread portions, and securing said thread against loosening.

'6. The mechanical method of sewing buttons to an article comprising "folding an article on a support with the folded-edge'to which a button'is to be attached ex tending beyond the -supporgmoving said support-to present aselectedportionof saidfolded edge to which said button is to :be attached in the path of movement of a needle threaded with a predetermined length of thread,

supportinga button above said folded edge of said article in aplane substantially parallel to the plane of said article, ,passing the entire needle and thread downwardly and completely throughaselectejd button hole and said folded edge of said work, and then upwardly completely through a ditferent selected button hole only to 'form a complete "continuousloop of thread, selectively moving said support and said button to locate other selected holes and portions of said work, and other selected button holes only in the path of moveme st of said needle, and continuing the formation of continuous loops of thread back and forth through said other selected holes in said button until a suflicient number of continuous loops of thread have been formed to secure said button to said article, and while said article is maintained in its original sewing position, fastening said loops of thread against unloosenmg.

7. The mechanical method of sewing buttons to an article comprising folding an article on a support with the folded edge to which a button is to be attached extending beyond the support, moving said support to present a selected portion of said folded edge to which said button is to be attached to the path of movement of a needle threaded with a predetermined length of thread, supporting a button above said folded edge of said article in a plane substantially parallel to the plane of said article, passing the entire needle and thread downwardly and completely through a selected button hole and said folded edge of said work, and then upwardly completely through a different selected button hole only to form a complete continuous loop of thread, selectively moving said support and said button to locate other selected holes and portions of said work, and other selected button holes only in the path of movement of said needle, and continuing the formation of continuous loops of thread back and forth through said other selected holes in said button until a sutficient number of continuous loops of thread have been formed to secure said button to said article.

8. The mechanical method of attaching buttons to articles of clothing and the like in a manner simulating hand sewing which consists in positioning an article of clothing on a support with a folded edge to which a button is to be attached extending therebeyond, moving said support to present a selected portion of said folded edge of said article of clothing in a sewing position in the path of movement of a needle, supporting a button above said selected folded portion of said article of clothing located in said sewing position for afiixation of said button thereto, passing a needle threaded with a predetermined length of thread completely through a selected hole and said selected folded edge portion of said article in one direction of said needle, and through a different selected hole only of said button on the opposite movement of said needle through said hole, selectively moving said support and said button to locate other selected button holes and portions of said folded edge of said work, and other selected button holes only in the path of movement of said needle and continuing the movement of said needle back and forth through said selected holes and the folded edge portion of said article, and selected button holes only to form a plurality of continuous loops of thread securing said button to said article, and then while maintaining said article in said sewing position with said button attached thereto by said continuous loops of thread, moving said button in an arcuate path along said loops of thread and positioning said button in a plane substantially parallel with the plane of the path of movement of said needle, moving said support to alternately locate opposite sides of said loops of thread in positions closely adjacent the path of movement of said needle, moving said needle in one direction past one side of said loops of thread attaching said button to said article, and in the opposite direction past the opposite sides of said loops of thread attaching said button to said article to wind a plurality of continuous laps of thread completely about said loops of thread extending between the botom of the button and said article of clothing to form a button supporting shank, moving said support to locate said lap wound loops of thread in the path of movement of said needle, and then passing said needle and thread through said laps of thread and said loops of thread attaching said button to said article to lock said laps and loops together, whereby when said article is unfolded, said button is supported by a post above said article.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,288,076 Lyons et al Dec. 17, 1918 1,918,281 McCann July 18, 1933 2,043,929 McCann June 9, 1936 2,451,495 Johnson et al Oct. 19, 1948 FOREIGN PATENTS 264,566 Switzerland Jan. 16, 1950 

